How To Adjust Washing Machine Water Levels – One of my biggest frustrations of late has been my new front load washing machine. I recently bought a whole new set, shiny and pretty to look at, with all of its futuristic buttons that light up and make Close Encounters of the Third Kind music. I guess they have to add all that new fangled stuff to keep you from paying attention to the fact that you will no longer be getting clean laundry. Can I please have my 1990s machine back, now?
How To Adjust Washing Machine Water Levels…
How To Adjust Washing Machine Water Levels…
I have seen all the many reviews raving about how these machines are leaps and bounds ahead of the traditional machines, and I will admit that there are definitely some improvements. But, for every raving review, you will find many more people who are not happy. For instance, you can read this article from Consumer reports on the top-load machines. But, I find the comments to be more telling.
Back when these new high-efficiency machines were introduced, I was the first to jump on board. After all, who doesn’t want to save money and help out the environment while doing so? Unfortunately, the powers that be keep raising the requirements and restrictions on “high efficiency.” My first front loader seemed to have an adequate amount of water. But, with this latest model and the latest changes in efficiency standards, I get about a teaspoon of water per item.
I mean, it’s not enough that we have to jump through hoops for these finicky machines in an attempt to keep mold and mildew at bay, (or suffer the consequences of the dreaded musty odor). Now we are left with machines that either won’t clean properly or, what I have been doing, lugging extra buckets of water to the machine every time I wash a load. Well, I have said enough and decided to make my machine perform the way that I want it to perform.
Disclaimer:
Before we go any farther, I just wanted to point out a few things for anyone who chooses to make these changes to your machine. First of all, if you are still under warranty, this may void it. That is something you really need to consider before doing this yourself. If you are concerned, you may want to call an approved professional and tell them to make the adjustment for you.
Secondly, if you make this adjustment you may not be able to pause your machine mid-cycle and add additional pieces. As the title says, we are adjusting the water level. That means that if you open the door with the water above the drum, you will have a mess. So either get everything in before it fills, or wait for the next load.
Third, please do not contact me because you ruined your floor by ignoring number two. ;-) While, I offer content that is accurate, it can not compensate for one’s skill level… or lack thereof. I suggest reading my full disclaimer located in the footer section of this page, before following these steps.
How To Adjust Washing Machine Water Levels – More Venting…
This is my machine’s water level with the addition of TWO dish pans of extra water added. I like to have at least this much water when doing a tub cleaning. Without the additional water added, my water level was just a tiny amount resting at the back of the drum. That is just ridiculous! How is the machine going to get clean when the water doesn’t touch 90 % of the surface?
The water level for washing clothes was just as ridiculous. My laundry would get wet, no doubt about that. I could watch the wet towels slapping around in the machine with no extra water in sight, and I wondered how this would be any different from me taking a soaking wet towel and slapping it around in my sink. (If you are reading this, then the odds are that you are experiencing the same thing).
And, I know all about the science behind these machines. How the water passes through the fabric instead of the fabric passing through the water. And, how the detergent requires less water, and yadda, yadda, yadda. Yet, there I was, still with dirty laundry. Even with the machine running for over 2 hrs on the steam setting and using all the extra rinse cycles, I still had clothes coming out with leftover sock odor and undissolved dirt. Can you tell that I was really frustrated with my machine, yet? But, enough with the rants. You didn’t come here for that. So, let’s get right to the first step.
How To Adjust Washing Machine Water Levels – Removing the Top…
Step 1: Pull the machine out to expose the back. (I didn’t unhook anything as I intended to test the results before reassembling it). Located at the top back of my machine, and most front load machines, are two brackets. These are the only screws that need to be removed.
Here is a better view of one of the brackets. This is what holds the top of the machine in place. I used a Phillips head screwdriver to remove both brackets.
Step 2: Once the brackets are removed, the top lid of the machine is easy to remove. From the front of the machine, push the lid towards the back until it separates from the control center – about two inches.
Then, the lid can be lifted up and removed from the machine. Believe it or not, the hard part is over.
How To Adjust Washing Machine Water Levels – Adjustments…
Step 3: The first thing that you need to do after removing the top is to locate the pressure switch. It is usually a round, white, device that has a screw located on the top. As you can see, it is held in place by a metal bracket. (On Samsung and LG front load machines, it should be located on the back of the left side). If you can’t find yours, do a google search for pressure switches for your machine’s brand to see what it looks like.
The adjusting screw on mine, and most likely on your as well, is covered in what looks like a red seal (indicated by the red arrow). This is either red Loctite or something similar. It will need to be scraped off so that the screw can be adjusted. I just used a tiny flat head, but a utility blade will work even better.
Step 4: Once you get the seal removed enough to adjust the screw, start by adjusting it just a few full rotations. Place one hand beneath the pressure switch to support it while making the adjustment. Tip – do not use a power drill to adjust this screw. It is plastic and strips very easily. I attempted to use my power drill on the lowest setting, and it still caused a slight bit of damage to the screw. Then, I switched to a large Phillips head screwdriver and supported the switch with one hand while adjusting the screw with the other, and this worked better.
I ended up adjusting the screw to the halfway point. However, I did test it at the maximum (all the way down) but, it was definitely too much water. I suggest adjusting it a few rotations at a time. Then, turn the machine on to a quick wash setting and see how much water you now have. With my machine, I wanted the water to have enough on an empty load to allow the machine to clean itself, but not so much as to come over the front of the drum.
Adjusting to the halfway point gave me adequate water for a tub cleaning, and also provided plenty of water for the laundry to actually get clean. Now when I run a load of clothes, the water level (clothes included) comes up to about 1/4 of the door.
Final Comments…
After you get the water level set to your liking, place the top back and attach the brackets at the back. Then, push your machine back to its original location. A few other tips for getting the most from your machines:
- Be sure to do a regular cleaning to prevent mold and mildew build-up.
- Don’t overload the machine. For best results, your laundry should not go past the middle of the drum height. That is approximately 6-7 standard sized bath towels.
- Do not overuse the detergent or the fabric softener. This will cause build up and lead to mold growth.
If you have any other good tips to share, please leave them in the comments section. :-)
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This post was shared with my friends at Remodelaholic.
Sue H says
I got my first front loader about 15 years ago – a Whirlpool. And yes that machine lasted until 2016. I had one issue with it early on and when the repairman came he gave me a very valuable tip – use HALF the amount of detergent. I’ve been following that advise and the machine lasted a long time! I used to leave the top panel open and ran at least one hot wash with chlorine bleach once a week. I had to replace it and got a new machine. No – it’s not as good as the whirlpool. Takes forever and I always push the extra water button on each load.
Rachel Lynn says
Wow! 15 years for a front loader! I believe that may be a record. My first one lasted about 7 years, but that was with me replacing the pulley system every year for the last 4 years of its life. :-)
Carolyn says
Great info. Do you know if top loading machines have the same pressure switch?
Rachel Lynn says
Yes, the top loads have a sensor as well. They typically are located in the top back, where the controls are. I would recommend googling “water sensor” for your brand, so that you can see what it looks like. Also, with the top loads, be certain to only do one single rotation at a time on that screw. Then do a test wash. They will over fill if you get too carried away with the adjustment. :-)
Karen says
Thanks for your advice on how to adjust water level on a front loader. It is just the information I needed!
Rachel Lynn says
Glad I could help!
Lisa says
I cracked up with your first paragraph. When I bought this house, the “space-age” pair came with it, and I thought “wow, now I can have some fun!” I sold my Amana washer, which I loved, loved loved but it was older.
This washer is the most hated appliance I’ve ever owned. I would get rid of it but it will look good on a resale, so I put up with the incredibly INEFFICIENT way it cleans clothes for the meantime, but I so miss my Amana, and give me a center agitator ANY day!!
I can’t wait to go back in time when I move. The older appliances were rock steady and my clothes were really washed. This one swishes them merrily around, leaving clothes at the surface if I don’t keep my eye on it and stop the load to push them down. I never overload so you can’t tell me thats the problem. Thanks for your suggestion, I may indulge in it one day!
RoxyP says
Thank you for this information. Despite using high quality detergent (and only the recommended amount), properly sorting, and not overloading, many of my clothes still have odors. I don’t have presoak or prewash type options, sadly (and I use the extra rinse and heaviest soil settings on all cycles). I can often still smell things on our clothes like deodorant, perfume, insect repellant, sunblock, and/or body odor (on athletic clothes). I am cursed with having a very good sense of smell but even my husband can smell the lingering odor much of the time. This never happened with my previous traditional washer because it used plenty of water to dilute and wash out the various stinky solutes.
Unfortunately my Maytag front loader seems to have a more high tech way they control the water level. I took off the top of my washer per your instructions, but my sensor is electronically controlled without a screw or anything adjustable (I had to look up the part online to identify mine). I was so disappointed. I’m going to see about trying something to make the load seem heavier without damaging the drum, nor soaking up water I need for my clothes (so no towels!), such as lacrosse balls (I’m open to other ideas, though). I tried adding more water after the cycle is going, but the dang thing is so smart it senses it and drains it out! It seems like the efficient machines were tested for getting out stains but forgot about odors (or the testers had poor to average sense of smell!). If it just used a bit more water it would be a fantastic machine!
Rachel Lynn says
Yes, I understand that Maytag has started using an electronic board (switch system) for their sensors, to prevent people from being able to adjust them. So, you would have to know which changes would get it to work. I am looking into finding out the proper adjustment. However, for now, it may be best to get a repair man to come out and instruct him to alter this for you. You can also try using this laundry additive by Lysol. It is designed to remove odors in the rinse cycle. I have used it with good results. You might also try running an extra rinse as a completely separate run (not by pushing extra rinse, just do a whole fresh rinse after the machine shuts down).
RoxyP says
Thank you for these ideas. I’ll try that Lysol product. My machine has a drain and spin, but that cycle doesn’t have a rinse too. Though I could bring the hose over and pour insome water and then run the drain and spin cycle. That could get a bit cumbersome. As far as adjustments to the sensor, it really looks like there isn’t a way to adjust it. Its hard to explain but the main part is round, about as wide as a quarter and maybe 1/3 to 1/2″ thick with a wire connecting it to the switch board. It’s much more fragile and smaller than I thought. It seems like it does not have anything in or on it that could be adjusted, and I wouldn’t want to try without having a back-up part. Here’s a link to a photo of the part from sears: https://tinyurl.com/yaeq5fdw …It makes it look much larger. I might see what a repair person could do. If not, my brother in law is an extremely gifted software engineer and we could try that route….yes it’s making me that crazy! Thank you again.
Rachel Lynn says
Your welcome. And good luck!
George says
Thanks for the tip. Are you increasing the water level by turning the screw clockwise?
Rachel Lynn says
Yes, clockwise.
Veronica says
Just curious if your machine is still performing well after the water increase? Do you notice any degradation because if it?
Rachel Lynn says
Yes, it is preforming “loads” better than it ever did before. ? Sorry, couldn’t resist the pun. But seriously, I am so glad that I made the adjustment. And so far, my machine doesn’t seem to have suffered any ill effects.
Carole says
How do I adjust the water level on my LG top loading he washing machine. I have been letting it “fill” then stopping the machine and starting it back up again. That gives a little more water for the wash cycle but not the rinse cycle. This whole concept is driving me crazy. I HATE this machine.?
Rachel Lynn says
Although I do not have a top load, they should all be similar in theory. From what I recall, the water sensor is located behind the control panel. If you pull your machine out, there should be screws holding a cover on the back of the control panel. If you remove those screws, the cover should come off by pulling up. Then, (hopefully) the sensor will be right in the center of all the guts that you see. The adjustment screw will be on top of the sensor, very similar to the image in this post. A repair person can make the adjustments very quickly.
Christian says
Whoa—how are you able to rinse all those suds? I just raised the water level on my FL LG after being fed up w/ residue, odor etc from poor rinsing. I found the lower suds detergents (Tide Coldwater, Rosalie’s) compounded the issue bc even LESS water was used than the higher sudsing ones. Anyway, now I’m washing w/o adding any detergent & there are tons of suds even w/ three rinses. I have only been using 1 teaspoon of detergent for this to happen. That’s how poor the HE’s are at rinsing…
Rachel Lynn says
I don’t really have a ton of suds. If I had to guess, I would assume that you have a build up from all the previous washes where there wasn’t enough water to properly rinse. I would try doing an extra rinse cycle with 1 cup of vinegar. That should help get rid of the soap.
irebel says
Thank so much you are life saver :) I got my hubby to try it and it works like a charm!! I was ready to junk it but you saved the day!!
Have a great and wonderful day!!
Rachel Lynn says
Happy to have helped!
Anonymous says
O.M.G.
So helpful!!
I thought the water level was pre-set and static for the machine life.
Yes, I get the same little “puddle” of water in the machine as you did, do.
I started using the garden hose connected to the sink in the garage to add more water
to wash the bigger items.
Now I don’t have to since I know this.
When I get home today I’m going to turn the screw more turns to get more water in the drum.
Would be better to be able to have this accessible outside the machine with a dial.
Thanks for the help.
Robert
Rachel Lynn says
Robert, your welcome! And yes, it would be nice to have it accessible on the outside. Of course, that would defeat the purpose of forcing us to use “high efficiency/low water.” ;-)
Qimu says
Thank you so much!
They claim HE and add too little water, but should give people options of using or not using the low water feature….
Rachel Lynn says
Your welcome!
Vance says
Great job Rachel Lynn, Any word on the newer machines without adjustment screws? I looked at the sensor RoxyP posted. Definitely a solid state device controlled digitally by a microprocessor. If there’s a USB port (or other) on the microcontroller board, maybe a service tech can plug in and adjust the software settings. Wish I had more info to help your readers (and you).
Rachel Lynn says
Great suggestions!
Mike says
Informative post photos you added makes easy to understand. Thanks for sharing
Frustrated says
Any tips for removing the red locktite? My husband and I couldn’t get enough off to turn the screw.
Rachel Lynn says
I used a utility knife to scrape away the seal. I believe that is the best way for this particular project. If that isn’t working for you, I have heard that acetone will dissolve it, but I have not tried that trick. If you do, you will likely need to put a small drop on top of the screw and let it sit for a bit. Whatever you do, I would not try anything that will be damaging to the plastic screw.
Majella says
Spain, Madrid-area an old Whirlpool and the water level doesn’t even show in the door ie it dorsn’t arrive that high..the owner says no no no that’s the way it works and is totally senseless and stubborn. The pressure of the water is probably the key wbere should the level be up to 1/4 of the door?
Rachel Lynn says
It really depends on whether the machine is functioning properly. If you are a renter, that presents another type of problem as you can’t really have adjustments made. But if you own the machine, I would look into adjusting the pressure. The level should be enough to adequately clean your clothes.
JB Frost says
Using a phillips head driver is a problem for our LG. I used a straight blade screw driver and it works well. Also didn’t have to remove the red seal/locktite as it simply broke loose.
The opening looks like a phillips head but it isn’t recess down to accept the point of the phillips, so the straight blade fits well and gives all the torque necessary to turn the adjustment screw.
So far, we are pleased with this entire fix. We’ve been using our LG since January 2019 and it’s been horrible with our older son’s laundry especially as very little comes clean, and none of the odors ever get removed. This will be a wonderful change if it makes the difference.
Like so many others, we miss our old machine! Ours was a 1970’s Maytag, center control dial on the top, green drum, washed like nobody’s business. We let it stay with a house we sold as the buyers were just in love with it. Shoulda kept it!
Rachel Lynn says
JB, Glad it worked out for you. I also had major issues with getting the odors out of my son’s clothes. After fixing the water level, I ran the difficult items (t-shirts and socks) through the sanitary cycle with some OxiClean Odor Blaster added to the detergent. Clothes came out fresh for the first time since buying this machine. Maybe give that a try.
PFC Layne says
Hey Rachel….i messed up lol
I managed to scrape that Locktite away with a small blade. But trying to turn the screw using both a Philips then flathead, I stripped that plastic adjustable screw to the point where it’s unrecognizable. Idk what my next moves gonna be. Any tips ?
Rachel Lynn says
You would need to get a stripped screw repair set and possible order a new plastic screw to replace the damaged one.
Jim says
Hi Rachel,
I have a suggestion for those who are cursed with solid-state water sensors (non-adjustable).
Without dwelling on the physics of why, find out what size rubber hose goes to your water sensor (probably 1/4″ inside diameter). Then get a “T” fitting and some hose of the same size.
Put the “T” just below your water sensor and add a length of rubber hose to the side connection. MAKE SURE THAT EXTRA PIECE IS PLUGGED so that it’s airtight. What you are doing is adding VOLUME to the air in the hose. That means the water level must go up more to compress the air under the sensor and tell the computer that the drum has all the water that the EPA allows you.
This will be trial and error! I’ll guess you’ll need to start with a one foot section to fool the sensor into letting enough water get in. If not, cut a longer section and try it. Or if you got too much water, shorten it a bit, PLUG UP THE END, and try again.